Shoe sewing machine



. May 14, 1935. O F, HQPPE SHOE SEWING MACHINE Filed Sept. 20, 1953 5 Sheets-Sheet '1 May 14, 1935. o. F. HOPPE 2,001,308

' SHOE SEWING MACHINE Filed Sept. 20, 1953 s Sheets-Sheet 2 May 14, 1935. o. F. HOPPE SHOE SEWING MACHINE 5 Sheets-Sheet 3' Filed Sept. 20, 1933 Patented May 14, 1935 4 I x v UNITED STATES PATENT orrics SHOE SEWING MACHINE Otto F. Hoppe, Frankfort-on-the-Main, Germany, assignor to United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Paterson, N. J., a corporation of New Jersey Application September 20, 1933, Serial No. 690,207 In Great Britain October 12, 1932 4 Claims. (01. 112-60) This invention is concerned with the manu- Figure 5 is a perspective view of the presserfacture of footwear and sewing machines suitfoot of the machine; v L j able for use therefor and has reference particu- Figure 6 isa detail sectional view of awcrk larly, though by no means exclusively, to methengaging roll of the machine; I r r 5 ods of and means for producing an article of foot- Figure 7 is a perspective view of a type of SaI-Y 5 wear simulating in appearance and having thehara'sandal for the sewingtogether of the sole qualities of the so-called Sahara sandal, while and upper of which the machine shown in Fig obviating the thonging together, by a lace or ures 1 to 6 is well adapted, the shoebeing shown thong, of the upper and sole, which is the charas it appears immediately after the sewing oper- 10 acteristic of that sandal and which has, up to ation; and V 10 the present at all events, perforce been a. hand Figure 8 is a cross-sectional view of the shoe operation and therefore slow and generally obshown in Figure 7, taken along the line VIII jectionable to footwear manufacturers. VIII of Figure 7. The present invention, amongst other things, Referring first to Figures? and 8, a type of makes provision for sewing together by machine Sahara sandal, the sewing together of the upper 15 (a) an outwardly directed flange moulded, prefand sole of which the present invention is par-" erably substantially parallel to the margin of ticularly concerned, comprises a sole I having the sole tread, on the periphery of the usual upan upstanding rim 3, moulded all around it. The standing rim of a Sahara sandal type of sole upper edge of the rim 3 is turned outwar y l and (b) an upper which has had provided on around the rim) to form a flange 5 which is sub- 20 it, a marginal bead of substantial (say-one quarstantially parallel to the marginal portion of the ter of an inch) diameter, the sewing that unites sole tread. Conveniently the sole is moulded to these parts being concealed (more or less) in the form just mentioned in one operation by the crease between the bead and the upper so ul g we Suitably Shaped (lo-Operating that as the result of this machine sewing operamoulds. The upper of the sandal is conveniently 25 tion a, shoe unit is produced which may be finformed of two separate p r a toe P r i ished by trimming off excess flange and then andaheel portion 9. The portions! and 90f the giving a rounded form to the residual flange porupper have each sewn to their lower edges (while tion, as by curling that portion back towards the portions 7 and 9 are in the loose state) a bead the rim over the stitching on the treadward face ll (best shown in Figure 8) which may consist 30 of the shoe. The result above aimed at may be of a thin leather strip folded around a reinforcsecured, in accordance with the present invening cord. As shown in Figure '7, the twoend portion, by the employment of a curved hooked tions of the bead attached to the toe portion] of needle boot or shoe outsole stitching machine of the upper project for some distance beyond the conventional type by modifications thereof of the ends of the portion 1, and when the shoe is as- 35 character hereinafter described by way of exsembled, the toe'portion I and the heel portion ample. 9 of the upper do not meet but the intervening In the accompanying drawings: space at each side of the shoe is bridged by the Figure 1 is a right hand side elevational view projecting end portion of the bead last referred 40 of portions of a machine of the general nature of to, which end portions are sewn tothe sole inthe 40 that disclosed in U. S. Letters Patent to French same way as th remainder of t bead The d Meyer, N0- 473,870 dated April 26, 1892, but points at which these end portions-of the bead equlpped h novel parts to 911311919 to on the toe portion-1 of the upper meet the ends form the sewmgof f Qutwardly fhrected flange of the bead on the heel portion 9 of the upper are moulded on the periphery of the r 1m of Sahara shown at l3 in Figure 7. In sewing the sole and sandal type of sole to a beaded upper; V

Figure 2 is a front elevational view of certain 3235 2;; g g :3 'giz g grgi j" g fi i of the sewing instrumentalities and work engagp Y pnor o ing parts of the machine; beginning sewing, say the heel portion 9 of the Figure 3 is a, left hand side elevational view upper to Sole make marks on the f showing in part an arrangement of parts for face of the flange 5 of the sole at the localities l3 causing release of the thread lock of the machine to ensure that P heel Portion 9 of the upper upon depression of a treadle by the operator; (Which can d l' e lo ated to the marks) will Figure 4 is a perspective view of the work table be Sewn in correct position to the Sole. The of the machine; marks themselves can readily be made in cor- 55 needle guide H, an awl l9, alooper 21,2, takeup 23, a work table anda presser foot 2?. The machine is equipped with treadle actuated stopping and starting mechanism (not shown) of well known character so that the operator may either, according as he desires, sew a succession of stitches or when proceeding more carefully sew only'a-singlestitchat a time. p i

The worlitable 251 I the m hine is of ,usual typ,e,,except that, asseen iirFigure 4, the front wants is preferably quite, thin. .This allows a seam-t0 be sewn guite clbse tothe apex of the aiijglelbetween vthefiiangeh and th rim 3 when work is;p leseiited to the machine, as is indicated fi l he presser f'oot 2l'is.shown particularly in 3 Figure 5. Its work engaging portion hasfa substantial-degree'of extension along the line of anduthrough thislportion there is formed.

f6 it v i a shit '31' extending in the direction of feed and corresponding generally to the slot in'the work .table.,25.,i.'lhe needle'and awl operate through the' s'lottjl'. ahdthe portion 33 of the presser foo-t between the forward wall of the slot and the front face of the presser foot acts during sewing as a guardto shield the upper from damage by the needle or awl.

Along the under face of the presserfoot with its axis'tothe rearof the longitudinal median line of the slot 3! there formed a groove of substantially semi circular cross-section which extends in the direction of feed from end to end 'offthe work, engaging faceof the presser foot.

As is in Figuresl and 3, this groove serves 9; en age the bead H onjthe upper to position th'eQb-ead during sewing. The diameter of the groove'is preferably slightly in excess of that bead. ,The lower. face of the portion 33 ofjthegpress'er'foot is well belowthe levelof the highest part ofthe groove 35 so that the portion 33lof "the'presserj foot enters well into the creas efbjetween the beadand the upper proper,

" andholdsjQthe upper downv towards the flange 5 by theportion 33 of the presser foot) so that the onthe'soIe-at a little distance from the bead, held by the"; groove. Thus affree passage isensurecl for' the needle and awhbetween the. bead and upperfisomewhat tensioned away from the bead needle and iawlrcan penetrate the' upper reliably and'uniformly at'the crease lastreferred to. The opposite'ends of -the=groove'3 5 in the presser foot are conveniently rounded off somewhat so that there is asmoothed (and not a sharply angled) entry: into and exit from the groove for the bead at the opposite endsof the presser foot'i To assist inis'up-porting the work during sewing,

the machine is provided witha horn arrangement, i

clearly shownin Figure 1. This hornarrangement comprises a bentarm :37 which is-secured at i ts :lowen end in a, b1'acket 39 by a clamping device comprising a locking handleti. The arm 3'1 islnorinally held irnfi xed. irlositiom,though this I The position is capable of heightwise adjustment.

The arm 3'1 extends upwardly and forwardly, and then upwardly and slightly rearwardly, and passing through a bore in its top end portion is a rod 63 which extends downwardly and rearwardly towards the sewing instru'mentalities of the machine and is fixed in adjustable position to the arm 31 by means of a set screw 55... Pivotally mounted about an approximately vertical axis on the rearward end of the rod 53 is a roll 41. This roll comprises (see Figure 6) a metal hub 49 rotatably mounted on a screw 5 i. On the hub 49 carried a solid. rubber tire 53 about one inch face of the rim against the front face, of the worktable 25 as the sole isfed past the sewing point; with its flange 5 resting on the upper surface of the work table. Theheightofthe roll il is suchthat its areaof contact with the inner surface of the rims ofthe soleis about on the same level as the area ofcontact of thefrontface of the work table;

25 with the outer surface of the rim.

It has already been mentioned that the machine may beiitted with'a starting and stopping mach;

anism. Such mechanisms, as ordinarily constructed andarranged, stop an outsole sewing machine in a position in whichlboth the needle and awl arewithdratm from the work, in which. the presser foot is locked engagement with the;

work, and in which the needle thread lock is closed,

so as to prevent threadbeing withdrawn from the thread sup-ply, Inorderthat, at theconclusion of the sewing operation, the work may be readily withdra mi, the illustrated nachineis provided with atreadle upon one continued depression of which the presser foot is first unlocked, then it is raised, then after the presser foot has risen slightly, the threacl lock is released. This treadle n cted to a treadle rod 55, depression of the treadle causing depression of the treadle rod which isnorrnally spring pressed upwardly. The arrangement whereby the presser foot-ll is unlocked and theni'aisedby the dGPrGSSiOIIOfAIbB treadle-ro-cl 55will first-be described. The presser foot fl is mounted on a lever 53 pivoted one-fixed stud 59 andhaving a rack-6i secured to'itsrear end. Also pivotedon the studifi is'a lever 63 .com nected with the lever tlby an arrangement com-w prising a rod 435 pivoted to the lever 57 and passing through a holein 2. lug Gl-on-thelever and having a compression spring 59 thereon above the lug. The rack EE is adapted to be engaged by frame'at l3 and-noi'n ally'have their teethpressed cycle of themachineto'lift the lever Stand,

through thespring ES-androd Bti'and lever 51,; force the presser foot into clamping engagement."

with thework. The cam lever li is-lo,wered in each stitch forming cycle-just previously'to the ,workbeing. fed. As thee-am leverfllreachesthe- .45 is not-itself shown iii-the drawings but it is con 60-, locking pawls "ll which are pivoted-to the-machine limit of ;its downward movement-za portion 191 of the cam lever -engages the tails of ,the-pa-wls l'l and moves the pawls out of engagement with the rack GI on the presser-foot lever 51. I The downward movement of the lever-ll alsoacts to relieve the tension on the spring I39, and thereby reduce the tendency of the spring to urgethe presser-foot 21 against the work. 'As'has been stated, the illustrated machineis provided witha treadle connected to the treadle rod55a This treadle rod is pivoted to one arm of a threeaarmed lever BI which is pivoted at 83 to the lever 57.

L The second arm of the three-armed lever is pivotally connected with the pusher 85 which is also connected by means of a pin and slot with the lever 51. When the treadle rod 55 is depressed, the pusher 85 contacts with a pin 81 on one of the pawls 'II and serves to release this pawl from the rack BI and also to release the other pawl II which is engaged by a pin 89 on the pawl I I carrying the pin 81. When the presser foot is thus unlocked, the third arm of the three-armed lever 8|, on further depression of the treadle rod 55, contacts with a face SI on the lever and thus the lever 51 is then turned clockwise, as seen in Figure 1, to raise the presser foot 2?.

The thread coming from the looper 2I passes around a roll at the end of the take-up lever 23, then around a roll at the end of the auxiliary take-up lever 93, then around a roll 95 against which it may be clamped at suitable times by the thread locking lever 91, and then around a roll on the pull off lever 99, from which it passes around a tension device to the supply. The thread locking lever 91 is pivoted on a horizontal shaft II and at its rearward end is engaged by a forked member I03 rigidly secured to a horizontal rock shaft I 55. Also rigidly secured to the rock shaft I 85 is an arm Ill'l, the upper end of which is connected by a yieldable, though stiff, connection to a rod I09 which is actuated from a cam on the cam shaft of the machine.

To actuate the thread locking lever 91 from the treadle rod 55 simultaneouslywith, or immediately following the lifting of the presser-foot, an arm III is rigidly secured to the rock shaft I05 of the locking lever actuating mechanism above described, and is arranged to be engaged by a roll II3 on the upper end of an arm H5 rigidly secured to a rock shaft I ll. Also secured to the rock shaft H1 is a forked arm I!!! which embraces the treadle rod 55 just below a stop collar I2I secured to the rod 55. Further depression of the rod 55 after the presser foot has been raised slightly brings the stop collar I2! into engagement with the arm IE9, and through the connections described, rocks the shaft I05 in a direction to move the thread clamping end of the lever 51 away from the roll 95.

It is believed that the operation of the illustrated machine will have become clear from the foregoing. Briefly to recapitulate, however, the operator to sew such a shoe, as is shown in Figures '7 and 8, will take the sole I and position thereon, say the heel portion 9 of the beaded upper (the sole preferably having had, as hereinbefore mentioned, marks made thereon atthe localities I3 at which the heel portion 9 of the upper should end). Then he will depress the treadle connected to the treadle rod 55 until the presser foot 21 is raised and, while the parts are in this position, he will present the assembled work (at one end of the heel portion 9 of the upper) to the machine and release the treadle, just mentioned, so that the presser foot 2! is lowered to bring its groove 35 into engagement with the head II on the upper. When the work is thus placed in the machine the work table will position the sole heightwis'e. by its flange.

The work table and roll will position the solebe-I tween them forwardly and rearwardly by its rim, and the groove in the presser foot will position the bead'on the upper heightwise and forwardly and rearwardly. Depression of the treadle which is connected to the stopping and starting mechanism will cause'the machineto begin sew-1 ing a lockstitch seam, indicated at I23 in Figure 8, to unite the sole and upper. When the heel portion 9 of the upper has been sewn to the sole, the toe portion 1 will thereafter be sewn to the sole in corresponding fashion, the sewing being made to extend along the portions of the bead I I attached to the toe portion 1 of the upper which extends beyond the toe portion I proper up to the localities I3 at which the heel portion 9 of the upper begins. It will, of course, be realized that no last is employed in the shoe during the sewing operation. Conveniently after the sewing operation has been completed, a last may be inserted in theshoe and the bead I I on the upper subjected to a smoothing or, beating operation whereby it is pressed up closely towards the upper to conceal the sewing I23 while the edge of the flange 5 of the sole may be .trimmedmore closely up to the sewing I23, preferably to a somewhat rounded form.

While the above description of the operation of the machine has been given with relation to the sewing of a sandal in which the upper is composed of two portions it is, of course, to be realized that the machine may be readily used in a similar manner for the sewing of a beaded upper made in one unit to an out-turned flange of a sole such as I.

During the sewing operation the roll floccupies a normal fixed position. There is, however, suificient yield in the bent arm 31 to allow of the roll 41 being displaced slightly forwardly to enable the operator to insert a sole between the roll and the work table or to remove it from therebetween though, when the sole is in fact between these parts, it is held in position by pressure of the roll 47 against it.

The nature and scope of the invention having been indicated, and an embodiment of the invention having been specifically described, what is claimed is:

l. A shoe sewing machine for sewing the lower beaded edge of an upper to an outturned flange formed on a rim upstanding from the tread portion of the sole having, in combination with the stitch forming devices, a work support shaped and arranged to support the outturned flange on the shoe sole, a presser foot cooperating with the work support to clamp said flange and upper intermittently provided with a groove to receive the bead at the lower edge of the upper, and a horn extending into the shoe and pressing the rim of the sole against the edge of the work support.

2. A shoe sewing machine for sewing the lower beaded edge of an upper to a sole having, in combination with the stitch forming devices including a needle, a work support and a presser foot cooperating with the work support to clamp the upper and sole intermittently, provided with a groove at one side of the needle path to receive the bead at the lower edge of the upper.

3. A shoe sewing machine for sewing the lower edge of an upper to an outturned flange formed on a rim upstanding from the tread portion of the solehaving, in combination with the stitch forming devices, a work support shaped and arranged, to ;support the v outturned flange of the 'shoegsole, vw-presser foot cooperating with the work-support to gclampthe upper and flange intermittently, and a horn extendinginto the shoe provided atits inner end with a roll au'ramged.to press the rim of the sole against theedge of the workisu p t g V.

1 41-. ,A shoeisewing machine for sewing the lower beaded edge of an upper to aksole having, in com bination with the stitch forming devices, a. work support and ,a; pressersfootcooperating with the work. support to; clamp the upper-and sole intermittent1y,:said-j,pr esser footflbeing provided :with a needle: slot ,and wither portion at one side of the needle slot provided'with afgroovetoreceive o'rro F. HOPPE. 

